Fig 1 Cross section of the top part of the window frame. Original Ford part left and the repro right Not much in it until you see the door closed Fig 2.
Getting into Felt and Rubber Part 1
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It really goes without saying that today it's more important than ever to have rubbers that fit. Come to that, felts as well. We are of course talking weather strip rubbers and window fells. Both of which if in good condition will add to the comfort in your Falcon. The rubbers not only stop the wet and dust getting in but help prevent the doors rattling, make them close more positively, cut down the wind noise and drafts. The felts on the other hand, when in good condition will do all the above plus the allow the window regulator to operate with straining your wrists or breaking the handle. Sourcing the parts is not difficult but try to get a look at them before you buy. The rubbers for coupes are made in a number of countries and the quality varies between them. Beware of some of the cheaper Asian products. The Roofrail rubbers should have steel inside the section that runs from the door hinge to the roof, some cheaper ones don't. The coupe door rubbers also have moulded ends and are supplied in one specific length. The things to look for are good quality moulded sections and ends with supple rubber. On all the other Australian models there is no roofrail rubber and, although the original door rubbers had a moulded section between the top hinge and the bottom of the quarter-vent, continuous length weather strip will do the job adequately. When buying by the meter cheek the profile, a lot of stock held by suppliers is nothing like the original. The single gutter section being sold as "to suite early Falcon" is only half as good as the double gutter Ford part, which you may not be able find. Window felt and bailey channel can also be purchased by the meter for all models. |
Fig 1 Cross section of the top part of the window frame. Original Ford part left and the repro right Not much in it until you see the door closed Fig 2.
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The adhesive is important as the rubber. Don't use woodworking impact adhesive like Contact and Kwikgrip, although they are excellent products they don’t work in this application. There are proper weather strip adhesives made for the job. One very good one is a 3M product called Weather-strip Adhesive part No 051135 it comes in black or amber and cost's about $6 a tube and will do two doors easily First clean off any old rubber, glue etc. from the door. Then wipe down with petrol or better still 3M Adhesive Cleaner Part No.08984. Next offer up the new rubber unglued. With coupes the screws will hold the moulded ends in place but on other models use masking tape to hold the weather strip to the door There is a danger of stretching the strip as it is stuck down, so place little bits of masking tape at intervals along the strip opposite recognisable places on the door, the corners, the top of the trim etc. Once you're happy with the way it fits dry, apply adhesive to about 600mm of the door first then the strip, as the glue dries quicker on the rubber. Allow to dry until they both feel tacky, by gluing the door first both door and strip will be dry at the same time. Then bond the two surface by pressing firmly together. Continue the same way with the next 600mm until finished. With coupes start from the centre of the bottom of the door and work both ways up the sides, being careful not to stretch the weather strip. |
Fig 2 Cross section of the window frame and roof line with the door closed. The double gutter weather strip makes a big difference.
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On other models work from the top corner above the door catch and along the top of the window for the front door. For the back start at the top corner above the hinge and work back along the top of the window. In both cases allow enough hangover at the start and finish to cut 45 degree mitre, which is then glued without waiting for the adhesive to go tacky. Clean up with a slight amount of petrol on a rag and allow at leased two hours before closing the doors. After 2 or 3 days cheek for any slippage and re-glue if necessary. On all models other than coupes and convertibles there is a small gutter extensions that is screwed to the front door pillars at about the height of the dash. These divert water that's running down the roof gutters away from entering the doors and can be obtained in Urethane or rubber. Coupe roofrail rubbers go in dry with a rib of windscreen sealant behind the rubber that runs down the edge of the windscreen support. First remove the retaining screw of the small leading chrome moulding. This is sometimes embedded in the rubber. Then remove the screws from the section of rubber that runs down the edge of the windscreen support. The small leading section of the main chrome moulding should now he free to be removed. The old rubber can then be withdrawn from the main chrome moulding and replace with the new. Clean off the old dry sealant from the windscreen support and apply a new bead before refitting in reverse order. Next mouth the felts and quarter-vents. If you're planning to renew quarter-vent rubbers don't replace the door rubbers without first reading that hint. |
DISCLAIMER While this method has been tried and works, NO responsibility will be excepted by the Author, the Club or any of its Members.
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