Early Falcon Car Club

of Western Australia

Front Up

This month and next we are looking at the front suspension and how to do a complete rebuild of the consumables. It's really no more difficult than changing a wheel and needs no special equipment. By servicing two borrowed spare parts either side can be fixed over a weekend without loss of vehicle use during the week.

There are two main consumable part types in the front suspension. They are the metal ball joints and rubber bushes. The ball joints are susceptible to wear if not greased regularly and also from the infiltration of road dirt through broken rubber covers. While the rubber parts are venerable to fatigue and either come adrift or are soften by oil contamination. The new urethane replacement parts give a slightly firmer ride but will not be effected by oil.

The sections requiring attention can be divided into five areas The upper control arms which have two rubber bushes and one ball joint. The lower control arms, which were originally sold as one part, and have one rubber bush and one ball joint. The spring and shock absorber saddles which each have a rubber bush. The stabiliser bar which has two "D" shaped bushes holding it to the chassis and four end link bushes at either side connecting it to each of the lower control arms and finally the radius rods which have two bushes at the front of each rod.

Diagram

Fig.1 The ball joints, rubber bushes and the threded rod and plate, in green.

Both sides of the vehicle are the same so it's well worthwhile obtaining one spare upper and lower control arm and servicing them first, then fitting the reconditioned units with the removed parts serviced and fitted to the other side. This will result in minimal off road time.

The upper control arm is the most likely to need servicing as it is the one that does the most work. Start by removing the three nuts that securer the shock absorber top mount inside the engine bay. These should be given a good spray of CRC and the threads cleaned with a wirebrush, as the bolt head is domed and the shaft has a very shallow square shoulder that is easily rounded. Undo the two nuts that hold the lower end of the shock absorber to the spring saddle and withdraw the shockie from the car.

Loosen and unscrew but do not remove, the large nut from the front, and the two bolts at the rear, of the radius rod. Dismantle the long bolt that holds the four link bushes between the stabiliser bar and the lower control arm.

Loosen and unscrew but do not remove, the nuts on the top and bottom ball joints. Then while holding a heavy hammer to one side of the tapered shaft housings of the ball joints strike the other side with another hammer to loosen the shafts within their housing. Do not try to hammer the shafts out by hitting the nuts or threads.

Loosen but do not remove, the three bolts that hold the upper and lower control arms to the vehicle.

With a spring compressor, or a length of half inch threaded rod that has a pair of lock nuts at one and, or better still a nut welded to the end, and a loose nut and a piece of steel plate at the other, compress the spring slightly.

Fig.2 Top insert The threaded rod in the engine bay
Bottom insert Threaded rod in the spring saddle.

If the method of spring compression using the threaded rod is applied, the rod is passed up through the hole in the spring saddle and the spring to enter the engine bay. Where the plate is placed over the rod and allowed to sit on the top of the suspension tower and the loose nut tighten down. This action will lift the saddle and compress the spring. Fig. 2.

EYE PROTECTION AND EXTREME CAUTION SHOULD BE EXERSISED AT ALL TIMES THE SPRING IS UNDER COMPRESSION.

Remove the two nuts holding the spring saddle to the upper control arm. Jack up and block the car from the chassis so suspension and road wheel are allowed to hang down. Then remove the wheel and all the nuts previously loosened.

There is no requirment to remove the shroud and rubber bump-stop as seen in Fig 2. this has only been done to show a clear view of the rod.

At this time remove the castor/camber shims between the body and, the pivot of the top control arm. Take care not to mix them, by placing them in bags marked front and back. The combination of shims on each of the two bolts may vary as much as none on either to heaps on one and none on the other.

Before it is possible to withdraw the control arms and the radius rod from the vehicle. It will be necessary to suspend the hub from a piece of wire or place it on a block of wood, as the brake pipe will not be long enough for hub to reach the ground.

Diagram

Fig.3 The upper control arm, Prevent distortion by supporting the area around the bushes with a piece of 50mm pipe.

Once the control arms are clear of the body remove the two bolts and washers from either end of the pivot on the upper arm. Support the outer section of the arm in a short length of 50mm pipe and with a suitable drift force the bushes from the control arm. Unbolt the ball joint, clean and paint the control arm and wirebrush the pivot.

Part 2 next month.

DISCLAIMER While this method has been tried and works, NO responsibility will be excepted by the Author, the Club or any of its Members.